Pulling the prop to remove line and weeds is job one in fall trolling motor maintenance.

Much as I hate to admit it, the time when many of us will quit fishing open water for 2025 is close at hand everywhere but in the deep south, which means it’s time to do a bit of TLC for the gear that has hopefully served us faithfully throughout the warmer months.

Minn Kota has published a general guide to this, but it’s useful for all brands. Here it is, with some added caveats from my own experience running a PowerDrive over the past summer: 

1: Clear the prop shaft

I fish mostly Guntersville, and there appears to be every kind of weed known to fresh water in this lake. One particular variety has cord-like tendrils that even the relatively weedless Minn Kota prop can’t throw off. Weeds equals vibration equals eventual bearing wear. Much worse is discarded braid, which can ruin the bearings. So pulling the prop and clearing the shaft is job one for fall maintenance. A few minutes of attention can prevent major damage later on.

2: Check the Prop Drive Pin

With the prop removed, inspect the drive pin that holds it in place. If you’ve ever bumped a stump or rock while trolling, that small pin may have bent or cracked. It’s designed to fail before your prop or driveshaft does, but if it’s bent, it can throw off balance and efficiency. Replacement pins are inexpensive and easy to install, so it’s smart to check a few times a year—or anytime you hit something solid.

3: Rinse and Wash 

You can ignore this one in fresh water, but if you fish salt, thorough freshwater washdown after every trip is a must to avoid corrosion. A bit of boat soap added to the water does a lot better job than hose water alone.

4: Lubricate the Shaft

Most trollers have composite shafts that are naturally slick, but they get sticky with buildup over the summer. Use a water-based silicone spray such as Pledge or Armor All to get the gunk off and make them slick again for easy deployment and retrieval. The company says to avoid oil-based products or wood polish, which can damage components. 

5: Tighten Mounting Bolts

Bolts and stabilizers loosen, especially if you fish rough water. Check all mounting points and snug everything down. A few minutes with a wrench can prevent wear and tear on bushings, brackets, and mounts—and maybe even loss of the motor overboard.

Clean the motor shaft and lubricate it with household polish to ease deployment.

6: Maintain Battery Connections

Loose or corroded connections can rob power or shut the motor down completely. Check that all terminals are tight and free of corrosion. If you see buildup, clean the contacts with fine sandpaper or emery cloth and replace any damaged wires. Add dielectric grease before reconnecting everything—it prevents corrosion.

7: Check and Charge Batteries

Your trolling motor is only as strong as its batteries. Recharge them as soon as possible after each use, and always top them off before your next trip. For convenience and proper charging, an onboard charger is worth the investment, especially for 24 and 36 volt models.

8: Adjust Steering Cable Tension

On most cable-steer motors the pedal tension is adjustable. On most a screw near the bottom of the foot pedal lets you fine-tune the feel—turn clockwise to increase tension, counterclockwise to decrease it. This isn’t something you’ll do often, but if the pedal starts feeling different, a quick adjustment will bring it back to normal. On remote control models, replace the battery in the remotes or recharge. (Stick a spare battery in your tacklebox for the remote—it can save a trip.)

Don’t neglect to tighten mounting bolts—omitting this step could result in a lost motor someday.

9. Prep for Storage

Before putting your boat away for the season, give the trolling motor one last cleaning and light coating of water-based silicone spray on all metal parts. Disconnect the power leads and connect the batteries to a smart charger to maintain proper charge during storage. These small steps prevent corrosion and ensure everything is ready to go next spring.

10: Secure your motor

If you haven’t noticed, trolling motors are now really expensive—and that makes them a target for theft. If your boat is not stored inside a locked garage, it’s a good idea to remove the trolling motor along with the other electronics before winter storage. Most high-end motors have a quick-release device that makes removal easy, and Minn Kota sells a plate that works for many motors for about $35.

The bottom line: a few minutes of routine maintenance—cleaning, rinsing, tightening, and charging—can keep your trolling motor running quietly and efficiently for years. It’s not complicated, and it’s time well spent if it means fewer breakdowns and more time fishing.

— Frank Sargeant
Frankmako1@gmail.com